Black man fashion

Man Made - celebrating African American fashion designers - Brief Article

AS THE MUSIC FADES AND THE FINAL MODEL SASHAYS DOWN THE CATWALK, THE LAST THING FASHION INSIDERS EXPECT IS FOR AN AFRICAN-AMERICAN MAN TO EMERGE FROM BEHIND THE SCENES AND TAKE HIS BOW AS THE DESIGNER. WITH THE DEATH OF WILLI SMITH IN 1987, PATRICK KELLY THREE YEARS LATER, THEN SCOTT BARRIE, THE BLACK FASHION WORLD WAS FACED WITH A DEARTH OF MALE SUPERSTARS. THE TALENTED DESIGNERS HIGHLIGHTED ON THE FOLLOWING PAGES ARE THE NEW BEGINNING. EACH HAS HIS OWN DISTINCTIVE, DAZZLING PERSPECTIVE ON STYLE, AND EACH HAS CARVED AND CLAIMED HIS OWNED NICHE EN ROUTE TO INTERNATIONAL SUCCESS.

KEVAN HALL OF HALSTON During the seventies, the House of Halston was the ultimate in simplified luxury, the elegant American answer to European design excess. In the late eighties, Halston ceased to exist ax a clothing, line, but the name never lost its luster (even after its famed founder, Roy Halston Forwick, died in 1990). Now Detroit-born Kevan Hall (who previously designed the Halston Signature Collection) heads the company as design and creative director, and he's made the house hot again.

When Hall was initially named to his current position in 1998, fashion's elite were shocked. Though he'd launched Kevan Hall Couture (his own California-based line that was sold in such stores as Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus) in 1982, Hall--who commutes between New York and Los Angeles where his wife and two children live--wasn't well-known in the fashion mecca of New York City. Even dressing Hollywood's A-list and being nominated as one of California's top designers doesn't have as much cachet among fashion-followers as a strong Seventh Avenue presence.

However, Hall possesses a less-is-more aesthetic sensibility so similar to that of Halston that he was brought back to replace the previous creative director Randolph Duke when he left. (Amid speculation of conflict between him and Duke, Hall had resigned to pursue other opportunities.) "Who would have thought that, 20 years ago when I was going through Vogue and seeing superstar models Pat Cleveland and Alva Chin in those incredible Halston gowns, I would one day be at the head of the house?" muses Hall.

After viewing Hall's first exceptional collection as Halston's chief, the fashion world immediately embraced him as the designer best able to take the house into the next millenium. The exultant reaction of is peers has been "very thrilling," Hall says modestly. His star has risen, and Hall has landed a well-deserved spot among the world's top designers.

Of being an African-American man at the helm of one of the country's most prestigious design houses, Hall says, "I think Halston would have been pleased that the line is in the hands of someone who share his vision."

LAWRENCE STEELE

Lawrence Steele is hardly new to the fashion scene. After graduating from the Art Institute of Chicago, he headed to Japan to join the knitwear company Jan & Carlos. Then he moved to Italy, where he worked with two of the country's most renowned designers--Franco Moschino for five years, Miuccia Prada for three. In 1994, with the help of Casor, the company that manufactures his clothing, he produced his own line of sensual sartorial must-haves. Steele, who has called Milan home for the last 14 years, has gained a widespread following in Europe and is slowly expanding his presence in the American market. With his gorgeous ready-to-wear collection, knitwear line and new city collection. LS_D Lawrence Steele Design, his label is well on its way.

B MICHAEL

First gaining recognition as a milliner, b michael (who keeps what the b stands for under wraps) is now making a name for himself as a ready-to-wear designer. His "elegant with an edge" aesthetic has been compared to Bill Blass's, but his popular nationwide personal appearances were what truly expanded the fan base for his seven-year-old label. The real test was his debut during the fall New York City fashion shows earlier this year. His retro-chic dresses and suits from that collection were deemed "soon to be classic." Of course, the gorgeous garments were accentuated by b michael hats and accessories (gloves, jewelry and handbags). His next show will probably also feature his soon-to-be-launched footwear line.

FUBU

At some of the progenitors of ghetto-fabulous fashion, J. Alexander Martin, Daymond John, Carl Brown and Keith Perrin (from left, above) have already made their mark--and they're not nearly done. Since 1992, when FUBU ("for us, by us") was launched from the home of John's mother, the label has been one of the hottest in the rapidly expanding urban-sportswear world. With hip-hop's royalty on board (LL Cool J was an early supporter; current Fans include Mary J. Blige and Will Smith) and athletes from the NBA to the NFL sporting the gear, the line has grown into a $350 million business and is now sold in more than 5,000 stores around the world. What's the next move for these young businessmen? FUBU eyewear, fragrance, watches, swimwear, loungewear, suits and more. And the beat goes on ...