Boy fashion show

Sweaters, fashion denims show promise in fall - according to discount store buyers at the Men's Apparel Guild in California show

Sweaters, Fashion Denims Show Promise in Fall

Men's wear executives at many discount chains are as uncertain about fall business as they are about what to expect early next month in Las Vegas, Nev., which will host the MAGIC (Men's Apparel Guild in California) show for the first time.

Merchandise executives at several top discounters said that men's wear sales during the summer were just "fair," but that there were encouraging signs going forward.

Most discounters also have changed their plans somewhat now that MAGIC has moved to the Las Vegas Convention Center from the Los Angeles Convention center.

For example, K mart will send just five buyers to Las Vegas, but 10 to the California International Menswear Mart (CIMM) show in Los Angeles later this month, before the MAGIC show.

Tony Vaal, dmm, all men's wear categories at K mart, emphasized that the 10-person team in Los Angeles will also be shopping the malls.

It's the prospect of slim shopping prospects in Las Vegas compared to trend-setting (especially for the spring/summer) Los Angeles that has several discounters cutting back on personnel and/or time in Las Vegas.

Ames Department Stores will have a 20-plus buying team winging to Las Vegas, but the team will depart before the end of the show for Los Angeles to shop there.

Chuck Rilling, vp, gmm, men's, children's infants' and toddlers' at Rocky Hill, Conn.-based Ames, said the expanded chain will have a greater presence at the show because of the Zayre acquisition. He added, "Also, now that we're much larger, we'll have to be thinking further out. We'll discuss fall 1990 with a lot of vendors. Most suppliers are attuned to that."

Rilling said he'll also be looking for some "special purchases" on key fill-in items for late fall/holiday, as well as making sure he didn't miss any hot spring 1990 looks.

Since he does only 20 percent of his total men's wear business in young men's, Rilling didn't see tremendous back-to-school business, but for fall he's expecting--and in some cases, has already observed--strong sales in men's sweaters and fashion jeans.

Several merchandise executives, in fact, mentioned fashion sweaters--particularly jacquards--and fashion denim jeans--particularly acid-wash finishing treatments, as well as fashion details such as pocket treatments, leather trim and/or ribbing--as strong early fall sellers. They said they expect those two categories to be strong through holiday.

For next spring, discounters are taking a strong position on T-shirts (washed-down or in neons) and lycra biking shorts (with neon trimming). Several also mentioned Supplex nylon shorts, which have a cotton-like hand compared to the lycra shorts.

Most men's wear executives complained about slow basics business, especially in jeans, which is a big meat-and-potatoes volume business for discounters. "Basic five-pocket denim jeans business is sluggish," admitted Rilling.

Eric Flodberg, vp, gmm, all apparel categories at New Castle, Pa.-based Fishers Big Wheel, said, "The action in men's jeans is in fashion. The basics business has been down-and-dirty, slug-it-out on pricing situation."

David Potter, vp, gmm, all soft lines at Green Bay, Wis.-based Prange Way, said, "We're not on plan for jeans this year. Fashion has been better than basics, but denim across the board hasn't been great."

Rilling said the men's sportswear business has been "just fair" in August, but he added that in some basics categories like workwear, underwear and hosiery, "We've been going great guns."

Rilling sees washed-down looks, and detailing like aviator-style patches and extra pockets, as big for fall/holiday in tops and outerwear.

Echoing other men's wear executives, Rilling said he did excellent "Batman" business when the movie broke, but doesn't have great expectations for it during fall.

K mart's Vaal said the timing of the MAGIC show--a little later this year compared to previous years--"isn't great for us." He said his team will be going practically straight from Las Vegas to the Orient for initial fall 1990 buying.

Vaal said he'll be looking for fall 1990 leads at MAGIC. As for spring/summer 1990, he said, "We're basically purchased for that season. We'll look to see if we missed any hot items, but if we've done our homework, we shouldn't be doing any major spring 1990 buying at the show."

Vaal also said that sweaters--jacquards and leather-trimmed, and distressed leather outerwear--will be strong late fall/holiday items. "There will also be a lot of fleece, with printing and patches," he added.

Big Wheel's Flodberg said that Bugle Boy-type bottoms, turtlenecks and mocks will do well in fall, as should flannels once the cold weather hits.

Flodberg is also aboard the jacquard sweater bandwagon for fall/holiday.

He added that going into this year's MAGIC, he's not as bought up. "We've gone a little shorter term to see what's available there."

Flodberg added that he and five others will be attending MAGIC, and that there are no plans to travel to Los Angeles.

Potter said he's planning less basics, and that he'll be looking at shorts and active groups in neon, woven tops and T-shirts and non-jean bottoms at MAGIC for next spring. He added that there will be four executives of Prange Way at MAGIC, including himself. "That's about the same as last year," he said.

Despite some reservations, most discounters said they were willing to give the Las Vegas show a chance. Several said they expect the show to be much easier to shop, which, if it is, will make it that much easier to get their work done sooner and then fly to Los Angeles to visit the specialty mall and department stores.

PHOTO : Discounters expect sales in men's sweaters to be strong through the holiday season.