Designer discount fashion

EDITORIAL - fashion retailing by discount stores

Can discounters do fashion? Ask a retailer-or manufacturer, for that matter-to describe what's happening in the current apparel world, and one word will undoubtedly be articulated. Fashion. Basics are flat, while so-called fashion goods are, to use the hyperbolic jargon of the trade, "blowing out" of the store. Examples of current fashions are numerous, with denim, in the form of high-styled jeans--some with side-seam treatments and embroidery, others oversized or featuring carpenter silhouettes--top of mind at most stores. But can the mass market really do fashion? How can huge chain stores that have to present merchandise that retails, for the most part, for $20 or less really capitalize on innovative fast-turning goods that must sell quickly, get marked down and be replenished with new looks in a virtual instant? What's more, will consumers accept fast looks from retailers that, unlike hip specialty shops or tony designer emporiums, have no long-standing pedigree in fashion statements? It's clearly a challenge, but many retailers are attempting the effort. Giants like Kmart are throwing their chapeaus in the fashion ring. This summer's edgy advertising campaign for Route 66 is a case in point. Even more telling is Caldor's new juniors effort (please see story, page A8). This regional has taken the initiative and rolled out juniors departments throughout the chain. The result? "Juniors sportswear for the month of August considerably exceeded what we thought was an aggressive plan," says Mark Minsky, senior vice president, general merchandise manager. Now, no one is ever going to mistake a full-line discount store for Abercrombie & Fitch or Bloomingdale's. But the mass market can succeed in fashion if it picks its shots, works closely with manufacturers that have the replenishment wherewithal to keep it in stock and hires merchants who can grasp popular culture at a glance. After all, many, if not most, discount store apparel shoppers never set foot in high-price, trend-setting stores. But they've grown up around the cathode ray tube and are compelled stay up to date.