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MAGIC trade show upbeat, focus on grunge and plaid - Men's Apparel Guild in California trade show, Las Vegas, NV

LAS VEGAS -- Forever plaid--that was the "grunge" trend story that translated into almost every category at the recent Men's Apparel Guild in California (MAGIC) trade show here.

The fashion event, however, was not enough to bring in the booming attendance usually reserved for this show. Late dates, April 1 through 4, and the closeness of the show to the Passover holidays, culminated in a smaller showing than usual.

Though there were no major retailers missing from the ranks, many of them brought fewer people to the show.

The mood was surprisingly upbeat, despite an economically difficult February and March, due in large part to the bad weather experienced nationwide. Like most MAGIC shows, this one focused on firming up long agreed upon deals, while looking for immediate good buys.

"There is definitely a demand for immediate delivery merchandise," said Lee Mandelbaum, vice president, Certified Fashion Guild, a buying office that specializes in closeout merchandise for off-pricers and discounters. Mandelbaum noted that readjustments were underway as retailers who started off with positive sales early in the year worked on their inventories to reverse the trend of the second half of the quarter.

Discounters especially seemed to fare best inspite of weather. "With the economy the way it has been, the new look of Kmart, plus our pricing and better fashion offerings, people are shopping Kmart as never before," said Richard Grille, men's fashion coordinator for the Troy, Mich.-based discounter. At MAGIC, Grille was looking for new fashion trends as well as sources for the men's private label lines he develops. Grille was pleased with the way the men's merchandise is evolving at Kmart, and reported it was doing well for the chain.

Edgar Braun, vice president, Long Haul, agreed that a readjustments was underway, but was less willing to attribute the problem to the weather. "There is a shift in the economy now that does not have to do with the weather," he said. "October through December and even January were good months for many retailers; but then many of them had to deal with February and March."

After a number of basic seasons, the MAGIC seemed to offer more trends. Though discounters are unlikely to jump into the more drastic grunge and hip-hop looks, vendors catering to the mass market found ways to interpret trends without losing sight of the discount customer. Sun Sports-wear introduced Guts, a young men's line aimed specifically at the mass level. A collection of T-shirts and oversized shorts with an urban grunge flavor were shown. E.S. Originals will make shoes nd windsuits for the line, as well. Buyers from Target and Jamesway were among the guests at the company's debut party.

At Gitano, layered looks featuring plaid and the all important hooded detail were shown in a variety of styles and colors. According to Mary Pat Lester, men's wear merchandiser for Gitano, discounters are beginning to offer some looser fit jeans.

Lester also noted a "utilitarian" trend in men's fashion. Shirts with logos that mirror the gas station attendant styles of the '50s are some examples of the trend.

That "utilitarian" trend has also been a boom for Williamson-Dickie, the men's work wear manufacturer. Though centered around practical and functional clothing, the line is now a fashion must-have among teenagers. The company is also expanding its shop concept for its Dickies brand. A Dickies shop is currently featured in Rose's and Meijer. A test of the concept is being planned for about six Target stores as well.

Sports licensed apparel continues to draw crowds, but the hot licenses now are cartoons. Looney Toons character, especially, are doing well, even with sports teams.

Stephen Adler, vice president, Leedmark, noted that the Maryland-based hypermarket was planning on buying some leather jackets featuring Looney Toons characters.

Denim was a perennial favorite at the show with most of the mass market brands-including Sasson, Brittania, Wrangler and Rustler--showing looser fit styles and colored jeans for the upcoming season. Bonjour did not display its line at MAGIC, but instead had a new booth presentation featuring Faded Glory, its new line of denim bottoms and tops.